Home for Czechoslovakian wolfdog
Whether you take an adult dog or puppy, you must prepare your home for it. To be safe for the dog, to have everything you need for life and you live in happy coexistence, here is a small list.
Remember to secure your home and especially objects that are directly on the floor and the puppy could overturn them, cables from the TV, computer, stairs and stairways secure with fence, if you have pool or lake, secure it - the puppy could drown. Do not forget the bottles of chemicals and sprays in the garden, control the whole yard fence, places where the puppy can get stuck and not get out as tubes and narrow passages, sharp objects, metal objects, which might have hurt, fall down stairs,...
Whether you live in an apartment or a house, the first days should be puppy with you as much as possible. Don´t push it out, alone or close in kennel. It is important to establish contact with him. Wolfdogs are addicts, if you learn it to be with you everyday and whole day, it will be a problem later learn him stay alone. The kennel or cage should be prepared before the puppy arrives. And start to learn stay there after few days, do not let it for later. Later it will be harder to learn it.
|Place to relax and sleep|
Each dog needs a place where it can rest undisturbed. In case of a wolfdog, is a good kennel necessary. If in house, it should not be placed in a draft, but at the same time not pushed out from happening in the house. Whether you get a cage, or basket is just on you.
Cage or pen prevent injury, if you are not in the room or at home, prevents from escape if alone or by hunting. But this isn´t a place where the dog delayed when you do not feel in mood for him or as punishment. The location is up to you, but in the first days at home it is recommended that the dog is sleeping near your bed, you can move his bed elsewhere later.
As home for the puppy will also serve old box, in which it likes to hide, if want privacy, discarded mattresses, specially raised beds for dogs and also special cages. Invest in more luxurious rest areas when the dog grows a bit, it will quickly grow and destroy it with biting.
If you live in a family house, its a kennel necessary, because of safety, when you leave the house. The best combination is to have the wolfdog with opportunity of free run. You should never close the wolfdog in a kennel and leave it like that his whole life. Even a wolfdog kept outside needs walks, spent time with family and something to do during the day. In this meaning have the dogs kept inside in a flat much better options. A dog kept in garden must have own space a pen and a kennel, where he can be alone and rest.
A dog kept in yard needs his own space, dog house and a kennel, where he will have his privacy. As an "extra" space, you can make him a run, where he can be when you away. It must be protected agains excape, digging, over jumping, climbing,... It should have more space than a kennel. Ideal is concrete base for fence. Fence 2 - 2,5m high. Must not have a roof, but the fence turned inside, so the dog can not climb over it. In this space should be a kennel placed so, the dog can not use it for climbing over. As ground use grass, sand, gravel or combination of them. Soon photos.
Wolfdogs are masters of escapes, so the first step should be to think about security of the pen. If you live in a house a pen is a MUST, if you need to secure the dog by visit, work, if we leave him alone in home and do not want, that he escapes.
Pen is a place for year-round keeping of the dog where is he protected against weather, where it can hide in extreme heat and cold - even though dogs are resistant to bad weather. The dog must feel safe, well and happily. Pen should be built on the leeward side or at least protected against strong winds, there should also be sunlight, but not whole day, because of hot days during summer. It should be spacious, clean, airy with plenty of summer shade and in winter with plenty of sunshine.
Clean the pen with not too strong smell solutions and let the dog inside after perfect drying. Those are available in all markets, but read exact how use them. It must be properly diluted and injected. Pen flush with clean water and let dry after cleaning.
Pen should have an area of 6-9 m2 free range for a large breed such as wolfdog, so minimum 3x2m, back and one side part has to be covered and part covered with netting, which has to be under the roof. Also the roof should be with netting secured. Im not joking. The dog need only a small open and he will try to escape. In the pen should be a dog house, with preferable straight roof. Wolfdogs LOVE to lie there and look around. The wall prefer with fence and than wood, sice they can bite in the wood and escape. The pen must be % resist.
Dog run is not necessary if the dog is allowed free movement around the garden.
In the pen should be place to hide a lie down. The floor should not be made from materials, that the dog can bite or digg in them. Also remember, that in winter, the floor should not be freezing cold.
Prefer materials, that are easy to clean with water. The urine can smell a lot, so you must be able to clean it with water.
It is a place for year-round housing of the dog and should have two rooms. Hallway and bedroom. Size is coming out from the size of the dog as an adult. Bedroom must be so large that the dog has comfort by lying and can turn, but not too large, the dog śhould worm it in winter. The entrance should be slightly higher than the withers high, the entrance to the bedroom a bit smaller, because of heat. This we achieve by increasing the threshold and not a reduction from the top. If you plan to have pupps, build it a third larger, than the size specified for the breed. Division into two parts is not necessary and also not isolation.
For a wolfdog - height at withers 60 cm above:
Length of bedroom 115 cm,
Length of hallway 70cm,
Entrance width 60cm.
Building materials should be wood, polystyrene isolation, isolation cover also inside, as the dog can bite in it. As isolation can be used straw, sawdust, glass wool, ...
The roof should be flat, the dogs love to lie there. It should be possible to open, because it needs to be disinfected too. The most common options for these purposes are front side or the roof.
Shed should not stand directly on the ground, should be elevated on wooden blocks or the like, about 10 cm above the ground. If placed in pens with a floor elevation is not necessary.
Give the dog to lie old carpet or mattress in the shed. In winter you can fill bag of heavier material, straw or sawdust. Replace the cartridge regularly. For cold winters cover the entrance, you can use a blanket or cloth. Do not be sad, if the dog destroys all the things, they prefer cold.
Water and feeding bowls
The dog needs two bowls, individually and separately for water and for food. The water bowls must have the puppy all the time. The dishes must have a reasonable size, for a pupp smaller, for adult bigger.
Puppy can make a mess when eating, so it is recommended to place them in an easily cleanable surface.
Today is offer very wide and you can choose between:
stainless steel bowl
bowls for traveling
The most expensive is stainless steel, plastic cheapest. On the plastic is very quickly see how long it was used and in ceramic is easily captured food. It is therefore necessary to periodically clean the dishes, of any material. Puppy needs smaller bowl as he will grow you need bigger ones. When is the dog outside, is good to have more bowls for fresh water, preferable in a shadow. In summer, change the water daily, watch our for greens in the bowl. In winter check, if the water is not frozen.
|Leash, collars, harnesses|
They must be size appropriate to the age and size. Since the first days you must get the puppy a light collar and leash. Check collar size especially in periods of growth.
Wolfdog is a bigger size dog, an adult male weighing 40 kg or more and a height at the withers has about 65 to 70 cm, by the selection of leash you should know this. For the puppy is OK a thinner leash, but as he will grow will also need new collars and leashes.
For first weeks you prepare (looking on activities you would like to do with your dog):
For puppy light collar in a fitting size
Leash, best long tracking, 5m or 10m
Short leash, if you go with the dog to noisy places
Collar as backup, so you have one more at home
Alternatively, the harness, which does not concentrate the whole power of the dog's neck, but the chest and back
Many of the trainer uses for young and adult dogs collars from chain. They have proven especially in training. But it rips dog hair, which may not be a big plus for example, at a show. But it is all about your taste and level of training a dog. Today the market is full of collars. But in any case so I do not recommend collars with thorns. They are totally inappropriate and do not save insufficient upbringing. If the dog is well behaved it obeys on normal collar, for barbed is no need! Whether your dog will need tightening collar is on your education. I personally have seen better handling and comfort on rough leather dog collar.
Leashes - whether you have one universal or more, more or less is it up to you, but look for what they serve.
We have leashes of different materials - woven leather, nylon, round or flat, chain, reel, tracking, ... In markets are different lengths, varying from short to 10 meter tracking.
If you are going to a busy place, it is necessary to have a shorter leash, about 120 cm long, which can a dog in the crowd easily control.
On the walks are suitable tracking 5 or 10 meters, which gives the dog freedom but still have it under control. Tracking leash can you do also yourself, long as you want and need, to hard fabric or rope attach the hook and make a few knots. Knots are used on the rope to jump on it, when the dog is running somewhere and the tracking leash is on the floor. You jump on it and the dog will stop.
If you are going to show, you do not need special guidance, but the best is thinner and shorter (about 120cm) leash. Show leashes, however, look better than plain collar and leash. If you want to be active in dogshows, is a good idea to obtain this one - you can buy it at the show.
Mnoho výcvikárov používa na mladých a dospelých psov obojky retiazkové, sťahovacie. Tie sa osvedčili hlavne pri výcviku. No retiazka psovi vytrháva chlpy, čo nemusí byť veľké plus napríklad na takej výstave. Ale ide hlavne o váš vkus a stupeň výchovy psa. Dnes je na trhu nepreberné množstvo obojkov. No v žiadnom prípade neodporúčam tzv. ostnáče. Sú absolútne nevhodné a zanedbanú výchovu nenapravia a navyše vytrhávajú pri nesprávnom nosení srsť. Vychovaný pes poslúcha aj na obyčajnom koženom obojku, nepotrebuje ostnatý! To, či váš pes bude potrebovať obojok sťahovací je na vašej výchove. Osobne som zaznamenala lepšiu ovládateľnosť a pohodlie pre psa na hrubom koženom obojku.
Vodítka – či už budete mať jedno univerzálne alebo viacero je viac-menej na vás, no radšej sa pozrime, na čo to-ktoré vodítko slúži. Máme vodítka z rôznych materiálov - upletené z kože, nylonové, guľaté alebo ploché, reťazové, samonavíjacie, stopovacie,... Na trhu sú rôzne dĺžky, od úplne krátkych po 10 metrové stopovacie. Ak chodíte na rušné miesta, je potrebné mať vodítko kratšie, približne 120cm dlhé, ktorým môžete psa v dave ľahko ovládať.
Na vychádzky sa hodí stopovacie 5 alebo 10 metrové, ktoré dáva psovi voľnosť, no stále ho máte pod kontrolou. Stopovačku si môžete urobiť aj vy sami, podľa vlastnej vôle ľubovoľne dlhú, z pevného úpletu alebo špagátu, na ktorý pripevníte karabínku a na lano spravíte pár uzlov. Uzly slúžia na to, aby sa lano neprešmyklo pod vašou nohou, keď ho pristúpite. Ako sa presne používa stopovačka nájdete tu.
For training, the trainer will say exactly what kind of leash you should bring. Each focus of training is required harness and other equipment.
Chain-leashes are suitable for dogs who love chew it. Chain doesn´t really "taste" it is suitable for the unlearn the habit. Puppy will quickly learn that the leash does not taste and do not bite it.
Retractable leashes are suitable for walking, on the busier places, because they allow the setting of reasonable length without having to hold in one hand a large knot of rope. They must, however, be stronger structure, where the dog will grow up and having more power.
Ak sa chystáte na výstavu nepotrebujete špeciálne vodítko, no hodí sa tenšie a kratšie (max. 120cm). Výstavné vodítka a obojky však vyzerajú lepšie, ako obyčajný hrubý obojok a vodítko. Ak sa chcete venovať výstavám, je dobré si zaobstarať práve toto - dostanete ho kúpiť na výstave (v chovproduktoch nie je veľký výber, skôr pre malé plemená).
Na výcvik na cvičisku vám výcvikár presne poradí, aký typ vodítka si priniesť. Každé zameranie výcviku si vyžaduje totiž iný postroj a výbavu.
Retiazkové vodítka sú vhodné pre psov, ktorí radi okusujú vodidlo. Retiazka im veľmi „chutiť“ nebude, preto sú vhodné na odnaučenie sa od zlozvyku. Ak chcete improvizovať, stačí pripevniť karabínou na obojok psa retiazkový obojok a ten pripevniť k vodítku obyčajnému. Vytvoríte si tak "nadstavbu" z retiazky na normálne vodítko. Šteňa sa rýchlo naučí, že okusovať sa vodítko nemá. Keď už bude naučené, stačí odstrániť retiazkový obojok a používať vodítko normálne.
Samonavíjacie vodítka sú vhodné ako na vychádzky, tak do rušnejších miest, pretože umožňujú nastavenie správnej dĺžky bez toho, aby ste v jednej ruke držali veľký uzol lana. Musia byť však pevnejšej konštrukcie, ak pes začne dospievať a naberať na sile.
Košík / náhubok - je veľmi dôležitá vec a už u malého šteniatka musíme začať s privykaním naň. Náhubok je potrebný napr. pri cestovaní mestskou dopravou, na miestach s vyšším počtom psov, ľudí, u veterinára,... Záleží aj na psovi, ale platí - prevencia. Radšej nech má pes náhubok, ako by malo dôjsť k nehode. Vlčiaci sú vnímaví a niekedy im proste niečo nesadne a hlavne druhý pes rovnakého pohlavia. Pri spoločných venčeniach je preto na mieste mať kvalitný náhubok. Nie všetci náhubok potrebujú, ale pre tých, čo ho nosiť musia, je na výber z niekoľkých:
- kovový - je asi najbezpečnejší, samozrejme, pokiaľ si ho pes nevie dať dole, vtedy sa ešte "pridáva" popruh cez hlavu, medzi uši. Síce úder kovom bolí, ale ochráni pred uhryznutím najlepšie. Na samca ČSV mi sadla veľkosť "suka NO". Pes s ním vie ako piť, tak prijímať pamlsky, ležať a riadne sa chladiť.
- plastový - je vhodný na začiatok, u mladých psov, je však menej odolný, i keď stále relatívne bezpečný, niekedy bývajú medzery medzi mriežkami tak malé, že môže (nemusí) dôjsť k prehriatiu, ak ho má pes dlho.
- kožený - toto ani nie je náhubok, skôr niečo, čo musíme mať, ale nepotrebujeme, lebo pes je vychovaný. Teda napr. do autobusu. Kožený náhubok totiž nechráni pred uhryznutím.
- plátenný, tzv. veterinárny - sa používa u veterinára, predchádzame len slabo úrazu, ak je pes naozaj rozzúrený, ale ochráni pred mimovoľným ohnaním sa psa. Na bežné nosenie nie je prispôsobený - pes nemôže otvoriť tlamu a teda chladiť sa.
Are important for the distraction from furniture and shoes, the dog has fun with them and will not be bored. Must be from suitable material, the dog may not easily chew it and swallow the parts. Do not give a puppy lot of toys at once, it would be nothing special for him and get bored fast. Just a couple of toys at time.
The market is full of toys for dogs and it is up to you, what you prefer. On a couple of things you should think about:
size proportionate to the size of the dog - not to swallow
material may not be very soft,
material not toxic, when chewed no toxic substances should get into body
should be in one piece, so the dog can not accidentally swallow a part
not have sharp edges or ends, which could stack between the teeth
absolutely no for old shoes or clothing - dog do not understand that it is a mark shoe for 1000€ or shoes into the garden, so toys should not resemble the things that a dog may bite and play with them.
Suitable are squeaky toys (but do not last long), knots of rope, chewing items made from buffalo skin, ... Puppy play with toys but more often with your shoes, twig, electrical cables, garden hose, blankets, flowers... Think of a secure environment from injury and destruction of your things - the wolfdog is a destructor :o)
Whether at home prepared food
or granules, for
the first day
you get from breeder
the puppy with, during the time by breeder.
If you do not prefer this
gradually add to
the original feed
your brand of
granules or give raw
food. No matter
how you choose, have so much at home, you
can feed it a week or two.
For kibble there are special barells, where it stays dry. For raw meat prepare freezer.
|Sanitary equipment - combs, towels on the feet, ...|
|Prepare brushes and other tools for grooming. Do not forget to prepare a couple of old towels, that you use for cleaning the dog, if wet or dirty. The dog must have its own sanitary equipment, separate them from those of your.|
Prepare a first aid kit for the dog, with disinfection, insect repellent, bandages,...
the tag identification number (from your city) and your contact number on the tags. When you buy a puppy, its chipped by the breeder already. His chip number is in the central database with identification. If you want to be sure about this, check it by next visit by your vet.
... many things come continuously. Other equipment needs dog bred in the home, the other dog living outside. Sports dogs, show dogs, all need bit different things.